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GLADIOLUS BULBS ANOTHER GOOD FLOWER FOR THE BEGINNING GARDEN AND GARDENER
Gladiolus Bulbs are technically not a bulb but are corms which are characteristic of a bulb. I prefer to relate them to the bulb category because gardeners,including myself,are everyday people enjoying their gardens. I will be forced here to call them corms on occasion because in the horticulutral world this is the botanically correct reference. Healthy gladiolus bulbs or corms can be identified by their smooth outside covering called husks. They also should not show signs of injury or be discolored in anyway. An interesting side note here is that the size of the corm dictates the final size of both the plant and the spike. The flower produces its best results in the first six years of plantings. This makes it necessary to save the cormels to continue a supply of young and healthy corms. WHAT IS A CORMEL YOU ASKED?
It is certainly not a variety of carmel candy. The gladiolus bulbs you see in the photo are first year cormels developing into full fledged corms. This is extremely simple and anybody can do it as long as you provide a spot to plant the cormels. These cormels are produced at the base of the plant and just need to be removed carefully with your fingers. I planted these in my raised bed along with three tomato plants and a group of Zinna plants. I was quite surprised when some of these even bloomed during the summer. They will be found on your gladiolus bulbs or corms when you dig them up for winter storage. By the way,as a word of caution,do not remove the small corm that is growing on top for this will be replacing and providing the buds for next year growth. I usually remove the corms found on the base and store them in plastic growers bag that has holes or sufficent ventilation for the winter. I found that leaving them on the old bulb or corm weakens the production of the flower in the next spring. On some occasions the plant produced more foliage then spikes of flowers. I just store these guys in a dark corner of my plant room in their bag. There is,of course,no reason why you can not start these corms inside in late spring just to get their development rolling. I have done this in my plant room with a planting pan that holds about 4 of these to a row. You also can do the same thing in any well lite area of your house. You will never have to buy another glad unless you have only one color since the cormels produce the same flower as the mother plant. I do have to mention here that it is quite unusual for the cormels to bloom in the first season. Although I did experience that as I mentioned above. It sometimes takes 2-3 years for this to happen. I do not want you to get excited if yours do not bloom the first time planted. 
When choosing a location to plant gladiolus bulbs or corms,the area should receive plenty of sunshine however they can be planted in the shade but you sacrifice large flowers and sturdy stalks. The energy consideration is another factor in sunlight planting. A shady plant will not receive the necessary energy to provide you with a vigorous plant in the coming seasons. I always talk well-drained soil and this flower is no exception. If your saddle with heavy clay or wet soils,by all means,create raised bed situations but still loosen up the soil to ten or 12 inches deep.
Gladiolus bulbs or corms may be planted a month prior to the last frost date in your area. If you desire a parade of blooms,then plant your corms every two weeks just remembering not to plant any more after the first week in July or they will not have the proper time to develop. The bulbs should planted to the depth of 4 to 6 inches for large bulbs,medium bulbs to 3 to 4 inches, and small bulbs to 2 to 3 inches. It is important that you plant the glads with the pointed side up. YOU CAN TRENCH YOUR GLADS This is actually an easier method to plant your bulbs since you do not have to be constantly digging holes. However you should make sure that similar size corms are in the trench to the depth indicated above. Now you can plant them in a single row, a double row, or randomly in the trench but maintain a distance of 2 to 3 inches apart. However,if you a gardener in the business of showing your plantings,they should be six inches apart and spaced from 20 to 36 inches apart. Your gladiolus bulbs will require sufficient water during the season. If you experience dry weather,make sure you provide water at leaast once a week to maintain the necessary supply of rainfall equivalent to one inch per week. The watering must be enough to really soak the ground. I do not recommend daily light watering as you are causing the roots to reach upward from the bulb for moisture. 
This photo is a prime example of what occurs when you do not stake your gladiolus bulb. This is a prime reason why some people dislike tall glads and go for the minatures which will not be discussed. In order to provide for tall and relatively straight spikes staking becomes essential. I totally disagree with those who advocate short stakes and the use of twine to fasten the spike. I have purchased these 36" stakes that are green in color made with a steel core and then plastic coated. They are referred to as a "sturdy Stake" and can be purchase at any place that sells plants and flowers. I like the color because it blends in with garden instead of the ugly wooden look. I attached a spike to an individual one of these stakes with plant velcro which helps eliminate the possibility of securing the spike too tightly with twine. These stakes provide excellent support and never slip or fall over after driven into the ground.
FERTILIZING YOUR GLADIOLUS BULBS A good application of fertilizer can be applied when your plants have established themselves in your garden. A 5-10-5 fertilizer will be sufficient for these corms. The first
application should be to only one side of the row and a mininum of four to six inches from where you have planted the gladiolus bulbs or corms. It would even work better if you were to dig a small trench several inches deep and put the fertilizer in the trench proceeding along the row until the end. If you do not want to perform this application method,then you can put it on the surface and scratched it in ever so gently. A second application should be performed on the other side of the row as the flower spikes start revealing themselves through the leaf encasement.
You may recognize this guy from the insects page for interesting facts on insects Of course here he is shown much much larger than actual size. This is a very small insect and does considerable damage to the flowers. It enjoys chewing on the buds before they come out of the encasement. This will cause distored and spotty flowers.They can over winter on the corms. Aphids and grasshoppers are no friends of this flower causing damage to both the flower and the foliage. There are other diseases that attack the gladiolus bulbs that lead to corm and stem rot. These diseases come about from improper storage. LET'S DISCUSS STORAGE OF THE CORMS Once the frost has killed all of the foliage it is time dig up the bulbs or corms. Remove the accumculated extra soil and sort your bulbs by the style so you can distinquish one from the 0ther next spring. If you have only one style than this is unnecessary. The stems should be removed just above the corms. These flower bulbs need to go through a period of curing. They should be air dryed and stored in a warm place. It maybe a good idea before storing them for a few weeks to do a thrip removal operation. There are many ways to do this either soak them in a mixture of four teaspoons of a disinfectant and a gallon of water and allow them to dry before packing away. You can also submerge them in very hot water,no boiling allowed,for about two minutes and then wait until they are dry. You can also store them with mothballs using one once for every one hundred corms. I would store these the same way I recommended for every other bulb. A cardboard box with peat moss and layers of paper between each row in a dark,dry,and cool spot. I have been storing them like this for going on ten years and have never had a problem when the are removed from their resting spot.
If you would like to review more summer bulbs that are suitable for your garden just close this page. It will return you to summer bulbs where additonal bulbs can be reviewed at the top of the page.You can also return to home by clicking on the link below. You should take a moment and sign up for our garden club newsletter. There is information in the newsletter that is not covered on the web site and released first to our subscribers. Return to HOME from gladiolus bulbs
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