MOSS ATTACK IN YOUR LAWN

The chemical control is probably the best move in this case and the one I used to control the problem. However there are several,what I like to refer to as cultural controls,such as planting a more shade tolerant grass,mowing the grass in the shady area at the proper mowing height thus encouraging deep roots. You could aways plant a ground cover in lieu of grass. You could also remove shrubs and trees to provide more sun into the affected area.

You can also attempt to correct the poor drainage of the area if this is contributing to the problem. You can always trench to remove unwanted water,elevate the area if the area involved is small.or install tile drains if the wet area is extensive. If your soil is compacted than the process of core aeration or aerification can be performed to alleviate the compactness of the soil and provide better growing conditions for your grass.This process is explained on the web site under lawn care.

Once you have attempted all of these methods,or you are already in the crisis stage,than more drastic methods are in order. You can remove the moss by use of ferrous sulfate monohydrate better known as Scotts Moss Control or Ortho Moss-B-Gon. This will result in the moss turning black in color and,by the directions,totally disappearing from sight. Well this is more than likely not to happen with some of the moss. It is recommended to use a spreader,however if you do not touch every moss blade,there will be some standing proud and tall ready to continue its invasion. It's best to apply by hand using a bucket and a small garden shovel and really attempt to cover 100% of the moss growing.It is important that you wet down the spots containing the moss so the moss control will stick to the moss. The Ortho Moss-B-Gon does solve that problem with a feeder nozzle on the end of the container. I do think,however,the Scotts moss control goes much further with just the little added annoyance of appling by hand.

You may need to rake the area after the moss turns black and has a few days to disappear. It does not always disappear but some blacken moss is still standing. This is particulary true if the moss was thick to start with in the lawn. Now the most important factor in all of this is changing the pH of the soil. This will prevent the soil from becoming over acidic since our friend the moss enjoys this type of soil. Most lawn grasses prefer a pH of 5.8 to 6.5 and by using agricultural or dolomitic lime will encourage the growth of the grass. It will do no good to apply this before removing the moss,because it will not kill the moss and will take considerable time for the encouragement of grass to grow through the moss.

The pH level can be checked by your local Cooperative Extension or buy a kit at your local nursey along with your lime. October is not too late for moss control!See the picture below as the moss control begins to work on the lawn

IT IS TIME FOR BULB STORAGE

The time has arrived for the digging and storing of your bulbs if this is a part of your Fall ritual. I have tried many methods of bulb storage over the years and have finally arrived at the method that I consider the most ideal situation. The worst part of this is frankly digging up the bulbs. You will need the following items to complete your bulb storage after the bulbs have been removed from the soil: Newspaper,peat moss,cardboard boxes,and a small can of water.

Using the newspaper line the bottom of the box and then place your first set of bulbs carefully into the box being very aware not to have the bulbs touch in any fashion. It would also be advisable not to place a variety of different species of bulbs in the same layer. It is also recommended that none of the bulbs be cleaned in any manner before placing them in their winter house. The accumulated soil will help keep the bulbs moist for weeks to come.

Once you have the bottom filled with bulbs,and not touching each other,bury them in peat moss until the bulbs are not visible. Now apply another layer of newspaper over the peat moss and add another layer of bulbs. This should continue until your box is filled to the top leaving enough room to close the flaps. Now a few other items of importance here,your box should be sturdy enough to handle the bulbs but not too big that you cannot pick it up after filling the box. You need to add a slight bit of water to each layer not enough to get the box all wet and mushy. The box or boxes need to be placed in a cool and and as dark area as possible. Ours goes under the stairs between the first and second floor in a closet.

These boxes need not be touched for the duration of the winter. It is advisble to also throw away any suspected bulbs that show signs of deterioration or softness as these bulbs might infect those in the same layer with this bulb or bulbs. If you follow these instructions,I can almost guarantee you that 97% of your bulbs will survive to bloom another day. Happy Gardening and look for some very interesting information in November.

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